When the Bahmani Sultanate shifted its capital from Gulbarga (Now Kalaburagi) to Bidar (previously known as Muhammadabad) in 1422, the ninth ruler of Bahmanis- Ahmad Shah I, faced challenges and struggled with political unrest and factionalism. However, he was successful in maintaining the integrity of the Bahmani dynasty, which had seen impressive growth in the past.
According to the historians, the kingdom was marred by internal strife for power. Despite several hurdles, Ahmad Shah I created an environment that attracted scholars from around the world. Besides promoting art and literature, the Mahmud Gawan Madrasa -an educational institution was established during his rule.
Bahmani coins released after shifting its capital from Gulbarga to Bidar, between 1422 and 1538.
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T GOPICHAND
Historians say that shifting the capital of the Bahmani kingdom from Gulbarga to Bidar was a strategic move as it made easier to administer the kingdom and the Bidar’s hilly terrain provided a security. Also its connectivity to trade routes encouraged trade and economic growth, and eventually helped it maintain distance from rival kingdoms, that brought political stability to the kingdom.
The Bahmani dynasty had 18 kings and ruled for almost 200 years . It made Gulbarga as its capital for the first 75 years followed by Bidar for over a century. Of the 18 Bahmani rulers, first eight rulers including – Allauddin Hasan Gangu Bahman Shah, Muhammad Shah I, Allauddin Mujahid Shah, Dawud Shah I, Muhammad Shah II, Ghiyas-ud-Din Tahmatan Shah, Shams-ud-din Daud Shah II and Taj-ud-Din Feroz Shah made Gulbarga as their capital from 1347 to 1422.
Ahmad Shah I, Ala-ud-Din Ahmed Shah II, Ala-ud-Din Humayun Shah, Nizam-ud-din Ahmad Shah III, Shams-ud-din Muhammad Shah III, Shihab-ud-din Mahmud Shah, Ahmed Shah IV, Ala-ud-Din Muhammad Shah, Wali-ullah Shah and Kaleem-ullah Shah ruled from Bidar as capital between 1422 and1538.
Inner view of Bidar Fort.
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T GOPICHAND
The Bidar Fort
The imposing Bidar fort is well protected with a three-layered fortification spread across 67 acres with a perimeter of 5.5 kilometres. Its outer walls measure 5 metres thick and 10 metres high, interspersed with seven gates and 37 bastions. The irregular rhomboid shaped fort houses palaces, mosques, and courtyards.
Bidar Fort.
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T GOPICHAND
The Fort has seven grand arched gates- of which the Gumbad Darwaza and Sharaza Darwaza were the two most prominent entrance gates. The other five gates – Carnatic Darwaza, Mandu Darwaza, Kalyani Darwaza, Kalmadgi Darwaza, Delhi Darwaza were named based on their directions.
Motif design on the roof of Rangeen Mahal in Bidar fort.
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T GOPICHAND
Rangeen Mahal
It is one of the preserved palaces in the Fort. The square timber columns at the entrance area support a beautifully carved wooden ceiling lying on wooden brackets with pendant banana-bud motifs derived from Indian traditional architecture. The inner walls of the hall are decorated with underglaze-painted tiles depicting foliate designs and flowering vases. The panels are framed by basalt colonnettes inlaid with mother-of-pearl, the carved wooden ceiling and dome with radiating motifs in Rangini mahal may be considered amongst the finest of all Deccani decorative arts.
Entrance of Rangeen Mahal.
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T GOPICHAND
Takht Mahal (Throne Palace) once housed the splendid throne of the Bahmanis, and though in ruins , is indicative of the regality of the palace. Diwan-e-Aam has three storied structures. Both the palaces are built around rectangular courtyards.
The Solah Khamba Masjid (16 Pillars mosque) was originally a ceremonial audience hall, however, historians believe that the structure was renovated to convert into a space where prayers could be conducted. The roof of the structure consists of a large dome surrounded by small domes. The Fort Complex also houses Gagan Mahal and Tarkash Mahal which are in dilapidated condition.
The Hazar Kothari structure in the fort was built for safe exit of the rulers family during attack from the enemies. According to local historians, there is an underground hall which leads to the outer wall of the fort.
Solah Khamba masjid ( 16 pillar mosque) located in the Bidar fort.
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T GOPICHAND
Cannons recovered
Founder of Team Yuva, Vinay Malge, said that several cannons were scattered throughout the fort on each bastion, ramparts and gates. He recalled that nearly six small cannons were recovered from the moat during restoration taken up by his team members a few years ago. The Karez system (also known as Qanat system) – an ancient Persian technology used for water supply that was introduced by the Bahmani Sultans in the 15th century and the water management system was further expanded and modified by subsequent rulers that played a crucial role in Bidar’s agricultural prosperity. Currently, the Karez system has been damaged or clogged and measures, and steps should be taken to revive and restore the Karez system, Malge says.
The fort’s evolution showcases the cultural and architectural exchange between various dynasties that ruled Bidar. Historians and several authors claim that the Bidar fort was built by Kakatiya ruler-Madhav Varma II in the 10th century. However the Fort underwent significant modifications, expansions and renovations by subsequent rulers including Bahmani Sultanate (1347 -1518) Barid Shahi Dynasty (1527-1619), Mughal Empire (1619-1724) Nizam of Hyderabad (1724 -1948).
“In every direction, great loops of bleak black crenelations swept over miles over hills and down steep valleys, a seemingly endless expanse of towers and walls, gateways and bastions, arch-shaped merlons and fortified escarpments.” An India-based Scottish historian William Dalrymple in his book –“White Mughals” describes the Bidar fort.
Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan Madrasa.
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T GOPICHAND
Contributions of Khaja Mahmud Gawan
Khaja Mahmud Gawan has made great contributions to the Bahmani Sultanate; from education to the administrative sector, his initiatives have left a lasting legacy. Due to his honesty towards Bahmani’s, Gawan was offered the post of mansabdar in Alauddin Ahmed Shah’s court, further he was made minister during the reign of Humayun. Later, Muhammad Shah II made Gawan the Prime Minister. His administrative reforms, educational patronage and economic initiatives shaped the Deccan region during the 15th century.
Gawan introduced a streamlined revenue system, boosting trade and commerce. He also divided the kingdom into smaller administrative units for efficient governance and established a fair judicial system.
Mahmud Gawan Madrasa built in 1472, which was considered to be one of the oldest and most influential Islamic educational institutions in India.
The Gawan Madrasa taught Islamic theology, philosophy and mathematics that attracted scholars from different regions.
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T GOPICHAND
The magnificent Madrasa structure reflects the blend of Persian, Arabic and Indian architectural styles. A large rectangular complex with a central courtyard, decorated with intricate stone carvings, calligraphy and ornate tile work on the minaret add to the structure’s grandeur. The structure is protected by the Archeological Survey of India (ASI).
The Gawan Madrasa taught Islamic theology, philosophy and mathematics that attracted scholars from different regions. Historians claim that the Library in Gawan Madrasa houses a vast collection of rare manuscripts and books, and also has residential quarters for accommodation for students. Recently the Madrasa was adopted by Shaheen Group of Institutions under the Adopt-a-Heritage scheme and a MoU was signed by ASI in August 2024.
Necropolis of Bahmani rulers at Ashtur village on the outskirts of Bidar city.
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T GOPICHAND
Ashtur Tombs
The Royal Necropolis of ten Bahmani rulers is situated in Ashtur village-3km from Bidar city. The first tomb belongs to Ahmad Shah; the interior of his tomb reveals its true magnificence-embellished with splendid paintings reflecting Deccani and Asian style of art. Similarly the tombs of Ala-ud-Din Ahmed Shah II, Ala-ud-Din Humayun Shah, Nizam-ud-din Ahmad Shah III, Shams-ud-din Muhammad Shah III, and Shihab-ud-din Mahmud Shah II were aligned.
Necropolis of Bahmani rulers at Ashtur village on the outskirts of Bidar city.
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T GOPICHAND
Flanking this tomb lie two incomplete domed tombs of Ahmed Shah IV, Ala-ud-Din Muhammad Shah; followed by two identical small tombs having pyramidal roofs belonging to the last two Bahmani rulers – Wali-ullah Shah and Kaleem-ullah Shah.
On the way to Ashtur tombs, you can find a majestic mausoleum (Chaukhandi tomb) built in honor of Hazrath Khalil Ullah, the spiritual advisor of Ahmad Shah. The Chaukhandi is an octagonal peripheral architectural magnificence covering the square inner tomb.
Published – November 08, 2024 09:00 am IST